I saw Istanbul during the pandemic<\/a>, but also Rome during the pandemic<\/a>. They all are unimaginable!<\/p>\n\n\n\n And\nnow, somehow, I have reached Venice<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n God, I\nwas so curious about how this place looks now, after I have already visited it\nfive times over the years!<\/p>\n\n\n\n At the\nairport, very strict controls, questions, checks. You pass some, and find\nothers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A dog\nquickly smells my suitcase and goes to another “client”. I wish I\ncould see what he would have done if I had some burgers, ribs or some old sheep\ncheese in my suitcase hihi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I leave\na deserted airport, with all the shops and cafes closed, and I finally take a\nbreath of Italian air…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\ndiscover outside the few people who have come to wait for their relatives\/friends.\nThis is a sign that access inside is strictly forbidden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (I like the gentleman hiding a bouquet of flowers behind his back. I would like to see for whom he bought it and what reaction he will get, but I risk losing the bus.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n I’m the\nonly passenger on the bus. I could sing something, not to get bored, but I am\nafraid Mr. Driver will kick me off the bus…<\/p>\n\n\n\n However,\nfrom the next stops, locals get on the bus, people who, judging by the time, go\nto work. If I didn’t have the suitcase next to me, I could pass like one of them\nwithout any problems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the\nvaporetto, there’s a huge crowd! I feel like during the good old days, when we,\nthe tourists, were invading, eager to move from one place to another, on the Grand\nCanal<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now,\nhowever, the vaporetto is full of locals! And I’m the only person with the\nsuitcase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I get\nout of the way for an uncle with some goods to be able to get off, I slip past\npeople with shopping trollers and I sit next to two postmen who hold the carts\nfull of correspondence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\ndialogues between some travelers make me understand that many of them know each\nother and I wonder where in God’s name are they during the good times, when the\nboat is full of tourists? Do the take another one? Are they lost among\ntourists? But what do those who carry goods do? They are no longer allowed to get\non and they take another route? This is a dilemma…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I knew a Venice that was full of hustle and bustle, crowded, with narrow streets buzzing with people, with boats on which, tourists from all over the world used to sit together, in a crowd, with gondoliers slipping talentedly one by the other, on the narrow canals, singing to the tourists who could afford to spend some more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Even if I imagined that I would be surprised by the new Venice \u2013 the pandemic one, the reality is shocking!<\/p>\n\n\n\n You\nknow that saying, “It looks like after the war!” That’s how I feel\nhere. Okay, everything is still standing, thank God, but this fact that you are\nalone in the big Piazza San Marco<\/strong>,\nreally makes you feel a bit like after the war…<\/p>\n\n\n\n And,\nwhat’s shocking: no pigeons! Man, how can this be??? This market was full of\nthem!!! I have some flashbacks from the times when I was\n“overwhelmed” by the pigeons here!<\/p>\n\n\n\n I remember some years ago when you went to San Marco with leftover bread, then years when you could buy food for pigeons from street vendors, then years when… it was forbidden to feed pigeons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This\nyear, hoping to find at least pigeons, if not people, I put in a bag the bread\nleft from dinner and I came to San Marco, optimistic that I will take the\n“picture with pigeons \u2013 2021”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n No way.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n I found\njust TWO pigeons!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bro,\nwhere did the rest of them migrate?<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\nimmediately took pictures of these two, since they have become “rare\nbirds”, seriously! The police and army crews are more frequent, really!<\/p>\n\n\n\n I take\nadvantage of the fact that there are no policemen around the corner at the Doge’s Palace<\/strong> and I take off my mask,\nto breathe a little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A few\nItalians are running on the water’s edge. No masks, as they are allowed to. I\ncould do the same as them, right? To get rid of the mask. But I would actually\nbe caught immediately, after 100 meters of running with my tongue out…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I stay\nwithout a mask for a while, for some selfies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At the Bridge of Sighs<\/strong>, I almost feel like\nsighing for some tourists!<\/p>\n\n\n\n I am\nthe only living being who takes pictures, with\/without a mask, every day when I\ntake this way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\nrare passers-by who cross the bridge look at me as if I were teleported from\nother times. The normal ones…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I take\nthe arrogance to take a picture of myself even further from the railing where,\nin the good old days, you could barely sneak in to take a picture. I’m doing\nthis in order to prove that the rush in the past is now just a memory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This is what this bridge looked like in times without a pandemic, seen right from the Bridge of Sighs. Full of people!<\/p>\n\n\n\n I leave\nthe Bridge of Sighs and the bridge that cries for tourists and take the narrow streets\nbetween the buildings. Every bridge I cross makes me notice the small canals of\nVenice, with green water mirroring undisturbed the palaces or the abandoned\nhouses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n No, I\nhaven’t seen dolphins J.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Seriously,\nit wouldn’t have seemed strange to me, judging by how clean and unspoiled by\nany boat the water is!<\/p>\n\n\n\n From\ntime to time, on some canals, Italians with boats loaded with goods, unload the\n“catch” of the day on the shore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the narrow\nstreets, the same feeling of desolation and abandonment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Rarely\nany passer-by.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I hear someone\nspeaking Romanian and I am surprised. I look up \u2013 on a building under renovation,\nthe workers speak Romanian. I feel like greeting them, but I’m afraid not to\nscare them…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I came\nacross workers in several places, because everything seems to be under\nconstruction. Renovated buildings, restored palaces, street interventions,\nrepaired bridges \u2013 that’s the noise of nowadays, that of the construction site.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Everything\nis closed. I came to a Venice that is a “red zone”, which means that\nneither restaurants, nor cafes, neither shops, nor museums are open.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here and there a few pubs sell sandwiches,\ncoffee and other small things, to take-away. And, very rarely, you\ncan find a restaurant that sells or delivers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\nsupermarkets are open and, to my great satisfaction, the \u201cgelaterie\u201d are also\nopen! (If I think about it, ice cream was my lifeline during this trip, when I\ncould hardly find food.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n In my\nwalks, I come across an open store, lost among dozens of other closed stores.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\nquickly make a “census” of the types of stores that are open, because\nthey seem an oasis of hope…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I find\nout that “essential stores” are open, so the ones with products that\npeople really need every day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Eyewear\nstores \u2013 open. And the household ones, with wires, strings, keys, things you\nneed for various repairs. A few shops with children’s clothes. Cosmetics\nstores. Shops with a lot of Easter chocolate, in all the possible forms, that\nsuddenly increase your blood sugar!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Oh, and\nyou can definitely buy panties, you know! All underwear stores are open. So are\nthe ones with socks. And those which sell essential accessories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Okay, I\ncalmed down. In case of anything, panties and phone cases I can buy without any\nproblems…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\nnotice with surprise that several sportswear stores are open. Then I understand\nthat they are also part of the category of “essential” stores, that’s\nwhy they have the right to be open. The truth is that I have seen so many\nItalians running, that it is clear that for them these are stores they often\nneed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I find\nit difficult to move around in shops where I see areas covered with foil or\ntape that prohibit access to certain areas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I find\nout that what is covered is considered “non-essential merchandise”,\nso it cannot be sold. You can buy certain stationery, but you can’t buy other\npieces of stationery, you can buy certain toys, but you can’t buy other toys.\nIt’s clear, isn’t it?…<\/p>\n\n\n\n Shit,\nand how prepared I was to spend my money on nonsense, in souvenir shops. What do\nyou know, they are also closed.\nI manage to find some fridge magnets, some masks (Venetian, not antivirus…)\nin small tobacco shops.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Speaking\nof the mask, I asked a policeman what the fine is for not wearing a mask.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 400\neuros \u2013 he answered me. I thought I didn’t hear right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Then he\nadded that if you pay it in 24 hours, you take “only” 280 euros out of\nyour pocket.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now,\nseriously, no one is absurd, you know. I took off my mask in many places to\ntake a selfie. Nobody said anything. And believe me, there were plenty of\npeople who could have, because the known places are full of police and army.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Instead,\nthe army approached me on the Rialto\nBridge<\/strong>, where I had found a perfect place, “overlooking” the\ncanal, for lunch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Just when I was eating some bad pasta taken\nfrom a restaurant, there came the army. The men elegantly\nexplained to me that I’m not allowed to eat there, so I quickly put a fork of\npasta in my mouth and gathered\nmy things, because nothing is a joke with these people…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I stayed to admire (on an empty stomach) the unrecognizable Canal Grande.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It’s so quiet!!! Only the vaporetto disturbed it, from time to time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the\nfamous Rialto Bridge, with shops that were once barely visible to the people\nwho went up and down continuously, now it’s just me, the soldiers who spoiled\nmy lunch and about 2-3 other young Italians, who take pictures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Otherwise,\nthere are just a few passers-by from one shore to another, seeing their daily\nlives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I never\ngot tired of admiring the palaces on this canal, reading or at least trying to\nfind out who built them and when, imagining the life inside them, remembering\nthe movies I saw shot in them (the first one that comes to mind is “The\nTourist”, with Johnny Depp and Angelina Jolie).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now,\nevery time I passed by here in the vaporetto, it was as if I had taken a\nprivate trip on the canal: perfect view on both left and right, silence, no\ninterference, plenty of time to enjoy the view.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I even allow myself the luxury of taking off my mask, as there is no one in the back seats, outside.<\/p>\n\n\n\n No sign of a gondola on the water. I mean, they are there, but not going anywhere… They’re all pulled ashore and they all seem to hibernate, with their covers on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Don’t even think about such an image now! Gondola rides are not allowed in this situation. Vaporetto rumbles from time to time, stopping at stations for the Venetians, you rarely see a water taxi, a rescue boat or boats\/gondolas carrying goods. And that’s it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What\nthe hell are the gondoliers doing? I think they have been starving for a year\nnow, without tourists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n “No\nway”, a salesman tells me. “Well, the gondoliers are rich! Some even\nhave palaces like this!” \u2013 he shows me a building on the edge of the\ncanal. And he reminds me that the price of a gondola ride was 80 euros in\nseason.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\nfact that this profession is inherited from father to son \u2013 he continues, also\nmeans that they have managed to gather some fortunes. Maybe only some people\nwith large families, who have become gondoliers 2-3 years ago, might have some\nproblems now, otherwise, no.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ha, I\nwouldn’t have thought about this…<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\nwander a lot on the water, but I also walk tens of kilometers every day among\nold and picturesque buildings, through fountain squares, through labyrinths of\nstreets that take me where I have never been before.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\nfarther I go from the deserted center, with almost everything closed, the more\nlife and noise I get and this pleasantly surprises me!<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\npractically enter the neighborhoods of the Venetians, where there is no\npolice\/army, where it seems to me that there are more shops open, where\nchildren play in small squares between buildings, where many people walk their\ndogs. (I had no idea there could be so many dogs in the lagoon hihi)<\/p>\n\n\n\n From\n“Ciao, bella! How’s your mom?” to “Give me a bunch of pumpkin\nflowers”, I go through all the daily dialogues of the locals as a\nspectator.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I get\nlost among them, I buy half a kilo of strawberries from a grocery store (super\ngood-looking and not at all tasty), I go to household shop and get a keychain,\nthen I eat a tramezzino with ham and cheese, sitting on the sidewalk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\nwine shop is open too. Cheers, I’d say! Wineries are also considered essential\nstores.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I stop\nat the door of the store where the people of the neighborhood get their\nprosecco from the barrel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Then I\nbuy magnets from Tabacchi. Between two Italians who came for cigarettes and\nsome noisy children who want chewing gum and whom the seller threatens that he\nwill tell their moms, if they don’t stop it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Buying\nmagnets, I already become suspect hihi. The seller tells me that he hasn’t sold\nmagnets in a year! He doesn’t even know where he put the boxes with them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Many of the shops with Murano<\/strong> glass products, masks and other spectacular things have a note on the door so that, if you want something from them, you can call a number and they come.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I had set my eyes on this, but I gave it up when I saw the price \u2013 230 euros! In addition, I would have burdened with a worry: to buy a house where something like that would fit J.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I’m\ngoing back to San Marco. But do you think I can find the way back??<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\nwalked around the streets so much, I think I walked my quota for a week, not\nfor a day! I crossed bridges over small canals, I took it to the left, then to\nthe right, wait, there is a sign for the train station, here is a beautiful\nchurch, let me drink some water from this fountain, then I got on a closed\nroad… and so on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n “God\ndamn you!” \u2013 I hear in Romanian. When I look, a beggar upset that she\ndropped her glass with some change, curses nervously. I feel sorry for her and\nI go back and give her 1 euro.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I ask\nher what in God’s name is she doing here, where there is no tourist?! She tells\nme the local people still give her some money. She can’t tell me how much she\ngets now compared to the good times and I understand why: she is a bit slow.\nBut she tells me she takes the money to her mother and brother. Poor things, I\nthink…<\/p>\n\n\n\n She\nbegs in front of closed shops where people rarely pass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Piazza San Marco<\/strong> is\njust as quiet at any time. And just as beautiful. When the bells ring, you can\nfeel them to the core!<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\npolice do their morning\/noon\/evening\/night round and, if they didn’t have\nyellow vests, I wouldn’t even notice them, they are so discreet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From\ntime to time, a child’s laughter breaks the silence. His parents have a lot of\nplayground for the pleasure of the little one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n (I\nhadn’t planned to take pictures in the morning, at noon, in the afternoon, in\nthe evening and at night, but that’s how it turned out. If I had made the plan\nfrom the beginning, at least I might have seemed smart and I could have taken\nthe picture from the same angle…)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n The\nluxurious cafes in Piazza San Marco have locks on the doors and the chairs are all\npiled up. It’s a desolate image.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I once\nstayed at Caff\u00e8 Florian<\/strong>, paying a\nlot for a hot chocolate, just to feel the vibe of San Marco Square, while\nlistening to the orchestra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The\noldest Italian cafe \u2013 and I read it is the oldest in the world too \u2013 celebrated\nin December 2020… 300 years!!! And, in all these years, I understand it never\nclosed his gates. Until now, when the pandemic turned everything upside down\nhere too.<\/p>\n\n\n\nVENICE DURING THE PANDEMIC<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-airport_arrivals-1024x767.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nMEMORIES OF VENICE<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-2010-1024x577.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-gate-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/doges-palace-venice_me-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/bridge-of-sighs-venice_me_3-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/bridge-of-sighs-venice_me_5-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/view-from-bridge-of-sighs-venice-1024x577.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nTHE SMALL CANALS OF VENICE<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-canals_2-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-canals_8-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-canals_3-1-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nTHE STREETS OF VENICE<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-streets_1-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSHOPPING IN VENICE. PANDEMIC VENICE\u2026<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/closed-768x1024.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/easter-products-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/shopping-during-pandemic_1-1024x768.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/pasta-with-a-view-768x1024.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/rialto-bridge-venice_me_3-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/canale-grande-2010-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-view-from-rialto-bridge-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/rialto-bridge-venice_3-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/rialto-bridge-venice_1-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nCANAL GRANDE<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/canale-grande_palace_1-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/canale-grande_palace_2-1024x768.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/canale-grande-venice_me_3-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-gondola_3-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/gondolas-venice-2010-577x1024.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAWAY FROM THE (SOMETIMES) UNLEASHED WORLD…<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venice-neighborhood_1-1024x768.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venetian-wine-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venetian-masks-768x1024.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/venetian-mask-768x1024.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nPIAZZA SAN MARCO<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/piazza-san-marco-venice_in-the-morning-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/piazza-san-marco-venice_in-the-afternoon-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/piazza-san-marco-venice_at-sunset-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/piazza-san-marco-venice_in-the-evening-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/piazza-san-marco-venice_at-night-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/san-marco-cafe-during-the-pandemic-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/caffe-florian-venice-during-the-pandemic-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
![](\"https:\/\/www.danamladin.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/caffe-florian-venice.jpg\"){kind=link}